Sensational Skin
Face:
The only treatment that permanently irons out wrinkles involves a surgeon, a scalpel, severe tugging and stitches followed by a couple of weeks’ convalescence. Unfortunately there is no face-lift in a pot, a box, a tub or a tube and when there is we can be sure that Oprah, Judy or Kerri-Anne will let us know!
Mature skin is unable to shed cells as quickly as it used to and the result is that the surface can appear dull, muted or ashy. The layer of natural fat beneath the skin thins out and the skin loses its firmness, while the natural collagen and elastacin lose their snap. Not only that; mature skin doesn’t retain moisture as well as it did when we were younger.
Basically skin functions slow down, less natural oil is produced and the surface becomes dry and flaky. Ageing sucks!
Skin care products make big bucks for the manufacturers. Women the world over spend billions of dollars on skin care every year. An online survey of 5000 women by Notebook: magazine revealed the average woman spends more than $130 a month on beauty products; and around $72 of that amount goes on skin care - with moisturiser being the most popular product. This amount equates to the same in every monetary currency.
It seems everyone has jumped on the bandwagon to produce magical potions that claim to reduce the visible effects of ageing; or is offering over-the-counter non-invasive alternatives to cosmetic surgery procedures, Botox, chemical peels and everything else. These use-at-home products profess to slow down the signs of ageing, hydrate the skin, stimulate collagen or decrease redness, and are available at every price point.
However, results are limited. Deep wrinkles will not disappear, dark spots and uneven skin tone will not be erased and broken capillaries will remain broken.
One of the skin’s many functions is to protect the body within from microbes, chemical agents, dirt, grime and water absorption. The outermost layer of the skin (the epidermis) is the protective layer that helps prevent topical penetration into the deeper layers of skin beneath it
Botox and collagen are effective only because hypodermic needles are used to penetrate the skin and inject the formula to the muscle tissue beneath the epidermis. When the same formulas are applied topically (rubbed onto the skin) they are ineffective, otherwise we’d all be vigorously scrubbing them on!
Advertising floss
Sometimes we come across advertisements inviting us to buy a product to ‘wash wrinkles down the drain’. If only wrinkles could be washed away!
The words ‘clinically proven’ used in marketing are often just floss designed to bamboozle and impress. Upon closer scrutiny you may find a claim of ‘clinical proof’ is actually the result of a study based on 20 women who continuously used a product, unsupervised, over an 8 week period.
When you think about it you’ve got to ask – Does that really qualify as a robust scientific trial?
Complexion Perfection
It is never too late to help your skin.
Over the years many of us have reverted to the slap happy approach – a token swipe with a damp flannel to remove what we can before going to bed, then a haphazard slap to put it all on again in the morning.
If you look after your skin from now on and follow a simple skin regime you can help prevent more lines and wrinkles creeping in.
Today’s skin care has come a long way from the lanolin based lotions and creams of our youth that simply promised to give us softer, smoother skin.
The three basic steps towards healthy youthful-looking skin and its maintenance haven’t changed. We still need to clean and tone and nourish the skin each day. However, the products enabling us to successfully do the three steps have changed dramatically. We have a choice of formulas – foams, washes, scrubs, tonics with and without alcohol, creams, milks, gels, serums and lotions, at all price points and all with sorts of applications. But when it comes down to it, the basics are still the same. I
f you follow no other beauty routine, do try to remove your make-up and thoroughly clean your skin every night.
Cosmetics left on the skin overnight are an open invitation to blackheads, flare ups and break outs.
Cleanse
Slather a make-up removal product onto your face and neck, massage it in.
Use a tissue or damp washcloth to wipe it off.
Foaming cleansers with rich creamy bubbles remove make-up build-up and pollution without stripping the moisture out of the skin.
The toiletries aisle of the supermarket carries a range of disposable make-up remover cleansing towelettes to lift off cosmetics and dissolve dirt, oil and pollution on the skin. They come in re-sealable packs of 25 or 30 (enough for a month), they are moist and gentle on the skin, and will even remove waterproof mascara.
Take a towelette, reseal the pack, and wipe the moist towelette all over your skin.
Wipe it over your eyes to remove eye make-up.
Although the towelettes remove make-up, a slightly oily residue can remain on the skin.
Tone
Use a mild toner once you’ve finished with the towelette, cleansing cream or cleansing foam.
Drench a cotton ball or a cotton pad with toner and wipe it over your face and neck to remove all traces of make-up and cleanser.
Nourish
Follow the toner with a dollop of night cream. Massage it into the skin.
Pat some eye cream around the eye area and go to bed!
Exfoliation
Exfoliating is a positive step towards sensational skin. Mature skin cells don’t slough away as quickly as they used to and the skin surface can end up with a blotchy texture and looking dull. Exfoliation boosts circulation and encourages fresh cells to move from deep within the skin up to the surface to give a dewy youthful look.
Most exfoliants contain miniscule grains, so the product usually feels slightly gritty. Some exfoliants are applied to dry skin; others are mixed with water or applied to moist skin. Don’t take any notice of any beautician who tells you granular exfoliants scratch the skin. They don’t. Exfoliants should be washed off with clear, warm water.
Most skins benefit from bi-weekly exfoliation followed by a deep drench of moisturizer and a good night’s sleep!
Expect to exfoliate sensitive skin less often and only apply exfoliant to the patches that need restoration. You will know your own skin type and which category you fall into.
Restoration
Serums rich in vitamins deliver concentrated doses of antioxidant restoratives that help plump up the skin beneath wrinkles. Apply a squirt of serum morning and night to your fingertips, rub them together to warm the serum and then massage it into your face. Allow a minute or so for your skin to absorb the serum before you apply moisturizer on top.
Serums are pricey and while you need only a smudge, there are alternative products such as radiance boosters to revive a dull complexion (fantastic for dark complexions that are tending to look ashy) or brightening masks that plump and hydrate the skin.
Moisturizing
Moisturizers plump the skin, making it appear dewy and fresh.
The hero ingredients of antiaging moisturizing treatments are peptides. These are formed by amino acids upon which protein is built. Peptides stimulate what is left of our natural collagen production into action by signalling to the fibroblasts (these are our cells that make collagen) that they need to produce.
Peptides effectively repair sun damaged skin and help it rebuild itself without redness or irritation.
Look for a day cream and a night cream containing peptides – Olay Regenerist Micro-sculpting Cream is reasonably priced and widely available.
Rub moisturiser between your finger tips to warm it before applying to your face. Smooth it evenly over your skin, working upwards from the chin to the forehead. Stroke it on gently, don’t leave a thin film spread over your skin; make sure you’ve massaged it right in to give your skin the maximum benefit.
Don’t underestimate the effects the sun can have on your skin. Whether you live in the Arctic Circle or a tropical island or somewhere in between your skin will benefit from a moisturizer containing sunscreen. Most moisturizers contain at least a Sun Protection Factor 15 (SPF15); check the container.
Eyes
The most delicate skin on our bodies is the skin surrounding our eyes. It is even more fragile than an eggshell. The eye area has very few oil glands so moisture evaporates quickly leaving the skin dehydrated. Blinking, talking and smiling all move the skin around, plus we unconsciously squint (especially when we really ought to put the glasses on and we have N.F.I. where they are!).
Our once youthful skin no longer bounces back into place because the natural collagen production has slowed down with maturity. All those years of rubbing, squinting, laughing, and crinkling, coupled with exposure to the elements often leaves the mature eye area with more lines than a train track
Eye creams do help minimize the effects of ageing. The formulas are carefully balanced with moisturizer, skin-firming and anti-oxidant protection ingredients specifically for the eye area. You may feel decadent and luxurious when you use a gorgeously rich face moisturizing cream around the eye area, but it isn’t good for the skin and in fact it blocks the pores. This can in turn cause those little white cysts called ‘milia’ that we invariably end up poking a needle at (when we know they should be professionally removed)!
Eye creams have the annoying tendency to migrate into the fine lines around the eyes. These little fine lines can act as conduits, channelling the cream into the actual eyes, causing irritation and redness. Eye gels stay in place more readily than eye creams.
So, carefully apply your eye product:
- Load a small dab onto the pad of your ring finger, rub it together with your other ring finger to warm the cream, gently smooth the product into the clean skin beneath your eyes starting at the nose and working outwards. Press any left over product onto the upper lids.
Leave the area for a few moments to allow it to dry and set (gels take a little longer than creams to dry) then carry on with your skin regime. - A pot of eye cream lasts a very long time and is well worth spending a reasonable amount of money on.
However, a decent night’s sleep is always the best remedy of all.
Dark circles beneath the eyes can cause a dilemma. Often the circles are genetic and are simply small blood-carrying veins situated close to the skin surface. Eye creams containing light refracting minerals such as mica and silica can minimalize and soften the dark bluish tint of dark circles and make the eyes appear brighter.
For you to know: A topical bruise treatment cream will temporarily lighten shadows beneath your eyes if they start to look too dark. The product stings if it comes into contact with the eyes. I also be use it to diminish those patches of dark purple spidery veins that plump out around the backs and sides of my knees when the weather is hot.
Lips
Although we might not want obvious fake pumped up lips, possibly the only part of our body that many of us would really like to be fat is our lips! Some of us would be very happy to accept fat hair, fat eyelashes and fat-ish eyebrows too!
Thin lips that are surrounded by cracks are a tell tale sign of ageing. Cracks or feathery lip lines are usually caused by years of talking, smoking, facial expressions or by regularly pursing the lips around soft drink bottles, cans or straws. They can also be hereditary.
Retinol creams help flesh out the skin and diminish the appearance of lines around the mouth and elsewhere. Retinol creams are topical treatments, available only on prescription from your G.P. Retinol is not a quick fix, good results take time.
If dry lips are an issue, condition them with lip balm. Good old Chapstick or Blistex protect lips from the elements while they re-hydrate.
- For quick lip enlivenment, gently rub a damp toothbrush back and forth for a minute to irritate and plump them.
- Remember to exfoliate your lips when you exfoliate your face.
- Massage wrinkle cream into your lips each night to help soften surrounding lines and wrinkles.
- Smother lips with lip balm, lipstick or lip gloss to keep them hydrated.
- There is really no permanent short or medium term solution to fatten thin lips. In the long term hyaluronic acid filler treatments are available from cosmetic surgeons and facial aestheticians.
The Neck
Apply sunscreen to your neck and moisturise it every day when you apply your face moisturiser.
If you’ve ended up with a turkey gobble the only permanent solution is surgical - either liposuction to remove excess fat or a surgical neck lift.
If surgery is not your thing the answer is to deflect attention to another area, so here’s the heads up:
- Wear interesting earrings to draw the eye up, and away from your less than perfect neck.
- Incredible eye make-up or whitened teeth has the same effect of drawing the eye away from a problem neck.
- Camouflage the neck with a collar– Grandpa collar with the top buttons undone, or a mock turtleneck collar (halfway between a crew neckline and a full turtle neckline) are the most flattering choices. Any too high collar is in danger of drawing attention to the neck and causing people to wonder what you are hiding.
- Short chains, short necklaces, a choker, thin necklaces or scarves emphasize a less-than-perfect neck. Long dangly earrings direct attention to the neck area.
To recap:
- Warm creams or lotions in the palm of your hand before applying to the face.
- Body temperature products are more readily absorbed by the skin.
- A dab of moisturizer smoothed over smile lines over the top of your make-up plumps up the lines before going out for the evening. Eye cream will smooth out fine lines.
- An oldie (but a goodie!) to rejuvenate dry facial skin is to fill a basin with hot tap water. Add a few drops of lavender oil (or a favourite essential oil) for a comforting and pampering perfume. Pull a soft towel over your head and shoulders and steam your face over the hot water, like a little sauna. Steam your skin for a few minutes to open the pores. Dab and blot the skin with the soft towel to dry it, then drench with moisturizer. Go to bed.
There are dozens of topical creams on the retail shelves containing a bewildering range of ingredients, all of which claim to be anti-ageing in some way. The most popular products are creams containing peptides which are high-tech amino acids that can soften fine lines and smooth the appearance – for a few hours.
Women of colour
Darker skin contains more melanin (brown skin pigment) than lighter skin, which results in the darker skin shade, more natural sun protection and less visible signs of ageing. Women with darker skin tend to have less deep wrinkles, fewer fine lines and less sun spots than women with light Caucasian skin.
Skin of colour is prone to pigmentation issues and uneven darkening or lightening.
Melanin-laden skin tends to be ‘reactive’. A rash, scratch, irritation, pimple or inflammation can trigger the body to produce excess melanin which results in dark areas or dark patches on the skin that can be disfiguring and devastating because they can take months or even years to disappear. Less commonly, melanin production can decrease in response to trauma such as burns, resulting in light areas and patches.
Dark skin responds to gentle handling and the wearing of sunscreen.
While dark skin is less susceptible to being sunburned, the sun’s UVA rays can still cause sun damage. Use a sun protection factor sunscreen (SPF30) that typically lasts around 4 hours. It is interesting that an SPF30 allows only 4% more protection than an SPF15 – but use the higher sun protection factor as we need all the sun protection we can get!
Scars, dark marks, and ashy patches can be faded. Exfoliation removes traumatized and damaged cells, exposing new and healthy skin cells to give a fresh, dewy appearance. A mild facial scrub will polish off and remove damaged cells, encouraging more even-toned, less pigmented luminous skin.
Dark mark damage is usually caused by skin breakouts such as blemishes and pimples. Follow a regular, comprehensive skin care routine to help prevent these.
- Clean your skin at night to remove any traces of make-up or pollutants that may have settled there during the day.
- Use a mild tonic to remove any cleanser residue. Follow with moisturizer, and pat it gently into your skin. Make sure it is fully absorbed.
- Apply a rich body lotion to your skin to keep it looking radiant and healthy.
- Women of colour who regularly exfoliate and apply body lotions are less susceptible to dull, ashy-looking skin which is the result of dry skin build up.
We will delay the ageing process. We will stop wrinkles in their tracks, we will boost the skin’s self repairing power and we will improve the tone and texture of the skin.
Best of all, we can do this without forking out a major contribution towards the cosmetic surgeon’s mortgage!
The Body Surface
Did you know the skin is the body’s largest organ?
The average skin weighs around 4kgs and covers around 2 square metres. It is waterproof, tough, light, and elastic.
Our skin has extraordinary functions – it protects against physical injury, regulates the body’s temperature, it cools and warms; heals and regenerates, holds all the other organs in and it keeps intrusive pollutions and toxins out. Our skin works hard for us, it deserves care and respect!
Beauty from Within
Beautiful, healthy, radiant skin is dependant on what is happening within the body. Youthful-looking skin has a lot to do with diet, digestion, hormone levels, stress and nutrition. When these are maintained within normal healthy levels, coupled with regular exercise, drinking plenty of water and avoiding sun exposure we are doing everything we can for ourselves and our skin.
In an ideal world if you religiously do all of the following you’ll give yourself and your skin the best possible chance of health, radiance and longevity.
Give up smoking
Drink alcohol in moderation, or give it up
Avoid stress
Wear sunscreen with an SPF30+
Drink lots of water (8 glasses a day)
Follow a healthy eating regime
Use skin care products
Exercise regularly
Get plenty of sleep
The Sun
How can something that feels so good be so bad? And BAD it is!
The Sun Is Our Mortal Enemy.
If you take nothing else from this, please, please take this advice: Apply sun protection to your skin every single day no matter what the weather is like - rain, hail, snow or shine.
Unless you’ve been living in a cave for the last few years you’ll know that skin cancer is the greatest danger from exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet rays.
Australia and New Zealand have the highest incidence of melanoma (skin cancer) in the world, and it is almost entirely preventable when the correct sunscreen is regularly applied.
Sunscreen is our most important beauty product.
To be effective sunscreen should have a SPF (Sun Protection Factor) of at least 15. Use a face moisturizer, foundation or tinted moisturizer containing SPF15 too.
For you to know: If moisturizer, foundation and tinted moisturiser individually contain a SPF15, this does not add up to an SPF of 45 when they are all layered onto the skin. Unfortunately the sun protection factor remains at 15!
Did you slather your teenage body in coconut butter and baby oil and bake yourself beneath the fierce midday sun at every chance available as I did? In your desire to get the deepest tan did you coversheets of cardboard with tinfoil to mirror the sun’s rays and redirect them with extreme intensity onto your skin. As a school girl I sat in the sun during the lunch hour with small coins placed on my upper legs so I could monitor my tan's progression. There are many recollections encompassing our innocent overexposure to the sun.
And now we know better! To pay for all that damage we have no other alternative than to slap on sunscreen and have our skin regularly checked by our doctor.
All skin whether it be dark, fair, medium, olive, etc. needs sun protection.
Skin cancers often lurk in overlooked areas such as the soles of the feet, the small of the back, behind or inside the ears and on the scalp beneath the hair. If you notice or feel anything even slightly unusual happening to your skin it’s important to consult your doctor immediately. Melanomas and sun spots can be successfully treated if they are detected in the early stages. Treatment is not as successful as the stages progress, so do make that visit to seek early attention.
Some of us find it well nigh impossible to give up the sun altogether. If this is you, then limit your sun exposure to the hours before 11am and after 3pm. The four intervening hours are when the sun is hottest and strongest, and when the skin is more likely to burn.
Wear a hat, sunscreen with SPF30, and sunglasses.
Fake a bake
Tanning booths and sun beds present the same melanoma dangers to the skin as the sun does. Exposure to ultra violet rays, whether from the sun or a tanning lamp, can burn, sizzle, cause skin cancer or kill you! There are healthier and more modern paths to a sun-kissed glow.
There’s no denying that a sun tanned body is perceived as a healthy look even though we’re well aware that we shouldn’t equate bronzed skin with good health.
When we are tanned we feel fantastic and a lot slimmer than we do when our skin is pale and pasty looking.
So, as sun exposure is simply not an option, how do we get a tan?
The safest choice for a gorgeous, youthful golden glow is a faux tan.
A sunless tan is easily achieved at home with self tanning lotion.
Exfoliate before you apply a self tanner for successful results. Sometimes this is called “body polishing”, but essentially it is the same as exfoliating.- Apply a moisturizing body lotion to your skin and pay particular attention to dry areas such as elbows and knees. The moisturizer helps smooth and even application of the next step – the self tanning lotion.
- Self tanning lotions need to be applied 2 – 3 times a week depending on the depth of tan required. Be careful not to overdo it; you want to look youthful, not like a desiccated lizard!
- Body moisturising lotions containing self tanning ingredients are quick and easy to use. The formulas contain enriching ingredients such as aloe vera to boost the skin’s moisture. A flawless even-looking tan can be gradually built up with daily applications. The fragrance used to be off-putting, but manufacturers have addressed this and the products smell better now. Some offer you the choice of the depth of tan you require – light, medium and dark.
- Self tanning products do not contain sunscreen (SPF), nor do they protect the skin against sunburn. Sunscreen still needs to be applied over the top of a faux tan.
- Coat your hands with hair conditioner containing silicone before using any bronzing product to protect the palms from absorbing the tanning stain, or use gloves.
Many beauty salons offer spray-on tans where you stand (either naked or wearing paper knickers) in a private booth in front of a stream of tanning spray. There’s usually a choice of colours. Go with the lighter to medium bronzers at first! A spray tan lasts for about three days, or for three showers. One treatment costs around $35. Spray tans do not contain sunscreen or protect the skin against sunburn. Apply sunscreen over the top of your spray-on tan.
Spray tan is notorious for rubbing off onto your clothes, sheets and chairs, in fact anything it comes into contact with.
There are leg-specific tanning products available to give your pins a quick boost. Do-it-yourself products are available from mass beauty retailers.
Tanned legs give a youthful vibe in the summer.
Retail details and magic products
Sunscreen
Banana Boat Faces SPF30 $6 per tube. Very high Protection for faces from supermarkets and most mass retailers.
The Cancer Council Australia Everyday Sunscreen SPF30+ 110mls $12 from the Cancer Council or Priceline
Cleansing Towelettes:
Neutrogena Make up Remover Cleansing Towelettes $8 1800.678380 from Coles, Woolworths and mass retailers
Dove Essential Nutrients Cleansing Towelettes $7 1800 061027 Woolworths, Coles and mass retailers
Cleansers:
Johnsons 3 in 1 Foaming Facial Wash $8. 1800.029979
Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser $14 1800.800765 ideal for sensitive skin
L’Oreal Paris Gentle Eye Make-up Remover $13 1300 659259, removes waterproof and long-lasting make-up.
Garnier Re-density for Mature Skin. $10 1300.659259, contains soya nutripeptides
Olay Total Effects Foaming Cleanser $13, 1800 028280
Toners
Neutrogena alcohol-free toner 150mls $8 Priceline 1800.678380, won’t strip the skin’s natural moisture.
Masks and Boosters
Clarions Beauty Flash Balm $57 02-9663.4277 or from Myer, David Jones, leading pharmacies.
SK-II Facial Treatment Mask $25 1800.012169
Avon Ultimate mask $40 1800.646.000
Eye creams
L’Oreal Revitalift Double Lift Eye Cream $32 1300.659259, lifts and firms the eye area. Dr. Lewinns Private Formula R4 Eye Repair Cream $6 contains peptides to help battle wrinkles, from Priceline.
Avon Anew Clinical Eye Lift $50 1800.646100
Clarins Revive Beauty Flash $49 brightens refreshes and tightens the eye area. From department stores.
Nivea Visage Q10 Plus Anti-wrinkle Eye Cream $19 from Priceline.
Nivea Visage Aqua Sensation Anti-Shadow Eye Cream 15mls $14 Priceline and mass retailers.
Olay Total Effects Antiaging Eye Cream $28 from mass retailers 1800.028280
Hand cream
Neutrogena Norwegian Formula Antiaging Hand Cream 50mls $6.50 1800.678380, will help reduce the appearance of age spots
Moisturizers
At the upper end of the market luxury creams such as Estee Lauder Re-Nutriv Ultimate Youth Crème ($270) or Lancôme Renergie Morpholift R.A.R.E. Extra-Rich Repositioning Cream (around $340) are fabulously indulgent. Available from David Jones and Myer.
Excellent results can be obtained from less expensive products such as Olay Regenerist Micro-Sculpting Cream or the L’Oreal Paris range of anti-wrinkle skin care options available from PriceLine, supermarkets and mass retailers such as K-Mart, Target and Big W.
Olay Regenerist Micro-Sculpting Cream Contains Peptides, $50 1800.028280
Olay Total Effects 7-in-1 Anti-Aging cream $30 1800.028280
L’Oreal Paris Revitalift/Age Perfect/Age Re-Perfect Creams SPF15 $30 - $40 1300.659259
Nivea Visage Anti-Wrinkle Q10 Plus Day Care $20 1800 103023 Fabulous day skin cream!
Garnier Clean Detox Antidullness Foaming Gel $10 from Coles
Clarins Beauty Flash Balm $57 02-9663.4277
Artificial Tanning Products
Sally Hansen Airbrush Legs – 3 colours $15, David Jones, Myer and some pharmacies
St Tropez Body Polisher, 120ml, $15, followed by St Tropez Tinted Self-Tanning Lotion, 120ml $53, Priceline.
St Tropez Self Tan Bronzing Mousse $44 1800 358999 easy to apply and gives an even tan.
ModelCo Tan Airbrush in a Can $45 02-8354 6700
Johnson’s Holiday Skin Body Lotion, 250mls, $6 Coles, Woolworths, mass retailers. 1800 029 979
Dove Summer Glow Beauty Body Lotion $7, 1800 061027 is a gradual tanner that allows you to transform pale skin with two applications and keeps the skin hydrated and soft.
Body Lotion
Keri Lotion, 500mls, $13, Priceline and pharmacies nationally
Sorbelene Cream 1 litre $4 Priceline Own Brand
Redwin Skin Cream 1 litre $4 Priceline
The Body Shop Mango Butter $28 1800 065232 Gorgeous, thick and sweet smelling
Exfoliants
St. Ives Apricot Scrub 150mls $9, from mass retailers
Natio Spa One Minute Miracle Body Polish $19 03-94159911 rich exfoliating formula that contains herbal extracts such as lemon balm, sesame and ginger.
Nylon mesh sponge ball $4, from supermarkets and mass retailers
Nylon knitted gloves $5, Priceline
Soaps for sensitive skins
Simple Soap $4 from supermarkets, fragrance-free
Sorbolene soap and dettol soap around $3.50 from some supermarkets, Priceline, etc.
Eulactol Heel Balm 100g $15 from Coles, for painful cracked heels
Manicare Pumice sponge around $4.50 from pharmacies, Priceline.
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